Clarksdale, Mississippi has been a center for blues culture since the 1920s. Its location as a transportation hub—where Highways 61 and 49 connect, where the Illinois Central and other railroads maintained depots and passenger terminals, and where the Greyhound Bus Company built a station—made Clarksdale an economic boom town. Flush times created audiences with money to spend for entertainment, and the blues flourished in the city. Many now-legendary musical artists were born and raised in and around Clarksdale: Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, Son House, Ike Turner, Jackie Brenston, Sam Cooke, Junior Parker, and W. C. Handy, among them. Clarksdale was a major market for the Delta’s constantly traveling musicians, and the likes of Robert Johnson, Howlin’ Wolf, and Charley Patton are also associated with the city. Today, that historic blues culture is preserved for visitorswhile contemporary musicians carry on the great Delta blues tradition.

Where to Hear Music / Festival info


Live blues is rare in the Delta these days, apart from festivals (see below). Juke boxes, changing musical tastes, a much-reduced population, and general poverty have eroded a once-thriving music scene. Luckily, Clarksdale offers some of the best local options:

• Ground Zero Blues Club Located near the Delta Blues Museum, this restaurant-bar-club books a busy, regular program of live music (not all of it blues). Check the calendar on its Web site for updates. Part owner and actor Morgan Freeman relaxes there when in town. (662-621-9009; www.groundzerobluesclub.com)

• Red’s Lounge As basic as a club gets: a well-worn building (formerly LaVene Music Center; look for the fading painted sign near the top of the brick storefront) houses a minimally decorated but totally bar setting with live music most weekends and occasionally during the week. Beer and setups available. (662-627-3166, 662-627-1367)

• Sarah’s Kitchen On Thursday nights, blues bands made up of students from the Delta Blues Museum’s classes play in this restaurant (check out the bulletin board of musicians’ photos and the blues-heavy juke box). (662-627-3239)

• Messenger’s Pool Hall A multi-generational family business, on the Lomax-era maps of Clarksdale in the 1940s. Open nightly, sandwiches, occasional live music.

Festivals

Delta festivals offer concentrated doses of blues music and culture. Events range from small, casual affairs to large, professionally organized festivals that attract thousands of visitors. Check individual Web sites for exact dates and lineups. Alert: These are generally outdoors affairs and Delta weather is hot from spring to fall, and downright steamy in summer—be prepared.

• April: Juke Joint and Planter’s Festival A free, family event in downtown Clarksdale with a parade, art exhibit, petting zoo, historic tours, pig races, and lots of live local blues in the evenings. (www.jukejointfestival.org)

• June: Highway 61 Blues Festival A low-key festival in Leland, about an hour south of Clarksdale, that showcases the Delta’s local musical legends (admission fee).
(www.highway61blues.nstemp.com/festival.html)

• June: BB King Homecoming The master returns each year to play a free outdoor concert in his hometown.

• August: Sunflower River Blues and Gospel Festival Free, intimate (on small stages in downtown Clarksdale), and focused on Mississippi musicians, this event includes traditional blues and gospel music. (www.sunflowerfestival.org)

• September: Mississippi Delta Blues and Heritage Festival The longest-running blues festival in the Delta is held near Greenville (about an hour and half south of Clarksdale) on three stages, including a juke joint set-up and a gospel tent (admission fee). (www.deltablues.org/MACE/home.html)

• October: The Arkansas Blues & Heritage Festival (formerly the King Biscuit Festival). One of the top blues festivals in the country takes place in downtown historic Helena, Arkansas, about a half-hour northwest of Clarksdale across the Mississippi River. Free, large in both artist lineup and crowds, and altogether an Event.
(www.bluesandheritage.com)

• October: Mississippi Delta Tennessee Williams Festival Playwright Williams is honored with a literary conference, porch plays, film screenings, seminars, and a drama competition for high school students. (No Web site; Google for information.)