Clarksdale, Mississippi has been a center for blues culture since the 1920s. Its location as a transportation hub—where Highways 61 and 49 connect, where the Illinois Central and other railroads maintained depots and passenger terminals, and where the Greyhound Bus Company built a station—made Clarksdale an economic boom town. Flush times created audiences with money to spend for entertainment, and the blues flourished in the city. Many now-legendary musical artists were born and raised in and around Clarksdale: Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, Son House, Ike Turner, Jackie Brenston, Sam Cooke, Junior Parker, and W. C. Handy, among them. Clarksdale was a major market for the Delta’s constantly traveling musicians, and the likes of Robert Johnson, Howlin’ Wolf, and Charley Patton are also associated with the city. Today, that historic blues culture is preserved for visitors while contemporary musicians carry on the great Delta blues tradition.

Where to Eat

Clarksdale offers a surprising variety of dining fare, from Southern
staples (catfish, BBQ) to the unexpected (healthy salads, tamales), and
an equal variety of settings, from funky to fancy. There’s something delicious
for every taste and budget. Some caveats: call ahead—the hours at many places
depend on whether business is jumping or not. Also, there’s no “no smoking”; if
you’re used to eating without cigarette smoke, be sure and ask for whatever “no smoking” seating is available. And this is the South: you’ll just have to enjoy some very tasty but distinctly fattening dishes; exercise vigorously when you get back home.

Near the Delta Blues Museum (walking distance)

• The Depot Blues Club & Restaurant Breakfast as early as 6 am; plate lunches and Cajun specialties. Live music on Friday and Saturday nights. 200 Blues Alley (662-624-8132) Monday - Sunday

• Ground Zero Blues Club This restaurant-bar-club delivers lots of juke joint atmosphere along with its down home food, served up for lunch and dinner. Lunch Mon-Sat: dinner and live music Wed-Sat. (662-621-9009; www.groundzerobluesclub.com)

• Sarah’s Kitchen “Authentic” does not begin to describe this super-funky restaurant. Lunch Thurs-Sat, dinner on “some” weekend nights. Beer and setups available. The fare is flavorful Southern soul food (662-627-3239)

• Madidi This sophisticated “fine dining” restaurant, co-owned by local attorney Bill Luckett and actor Morgan Freeman, offers a delicious menu in an equally tasteful setting. Reservations recommended. (662-627-7770)

• Delta Amusement Blues Café Plate lunches, chili-cheeseburgers, hearty breakfasts, and lots of Delta attitude make this a downtown favorite. (662-627-1467)

• Dutch Oven An Amish bakery, with tasty pastries, cakes, and pies, and a lunchtime café during the week, with yummy sandwiches and savory soups. Sat morning, there’s a breakfast serving. (662-621-9766)

• Blues Berry Café, Bakery, and Deli Some breakfast and lunch basics: pastries, bread, pizza, and sandwiches. (662-627-7008) (www.bluesberryrocks.com)

In and Around Clarksdale


• Abe’s Bar BQ Pork, beef, chicken, and gallons of BBQ sauce, what else? (662-624-9947; www.abesbbq.com)

• Hicks Famous Hot Tamales and More Spicy Delta-style tamales plus “more”: catfish and BBQ. (662-624-9887; www.hickstamales.com)

• Ramon’s Presents zesty “family-style” Italian menu in an unassuming neighborhood restaurant and bar. (662-624-9230)

• Resthaven Serves Italian, American, and Lebanese dishes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. (662-624-8601)

• The Ranchero Meat lover’s delight: steaks, BBQ, and seafood. (662-624-9768)

• Farraday’s At the nearby Isle of Capri Casino, this restaurant serves up prime rib, certified Angus steaks, and succulent lobster in a relaxed atmosphere of casual elegance. (800-THE-ISLE)

• Uncle Henry’s Place and Inn The ground floor of this Moon Lake B & B is a quintessentially Louisiana-style restaurant, from its timeless décor to its Creole-influenced menu. Reservations recommended. (662-337-2757)

• Kathryn’s Another longtime Moon Lake favorite, now serving a mix of its traditional recipes and new, Cajun-flavored seafood, all of it made fresh (even the onion rings). Family-operated, Kathryn’s offers fine dining in a homey style, with a fine lake view. Reservations recommended. (662-337-2962; www.kathrynsonmoonlake.com )